This tiny storefront ‘graperia, cafeteria and galleria’ is the most underground place you’ll find on the Tkalčićeva strip. The interior undergoes radical changes every year or so and has the appearance of an art installation rather than a café-bar. Last year’s sci-fi look has been replaced by a long table made from an ironing board, and a cluster of glass cases with egg-like objects lurking inside. Outdoors, Cica’s tight clutch of stools and tables is insufficient to cope on summer evenings, when it’s standing-room only both inside and out. Otherwise, Cica’s main claim to fame is the long menu of house rakijas or brandies, which stretches to blueberry, honey, nut, fig and aniseed alongside the more common šljivovica (plum) and travarica (mixed herb) varieties.