Opposite Firule’s tennis courts, Hedonist has been a swift hit with affluent young Spličani after a celebrity champagne-and-oysters opening in 2009. The modest exterior hides an interior that is only modest in size but full of colourful cushions on benches facing uncomfortable-looking chairs in the shape of question marks. Soon the party starts to swing to house and lounge music, while le tout Split floods in. Hedonist shares owners with Egoist, an equally cool café on the same street.

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