Locals would class this as a restaurant and it serves food, to be sure. They would also called it the ‘Tre Volte’, after the arches overlooking the sea, the main reason for coming here in the first place. To find it, mount the steps by the sphinx at Peristil, cut through the vestibule with the hole in the roof. Past the chairs outside the Hotel Vestibul Palace on your right will be a yellow arrow saying ‘Grill’. Follow it. You will find the only bar within the palace overlooking the waterfront from above, an enclosed terrace of tables ideally located for a sundown beer. Inside is a traditional konoba, cheap meats and such like, with saggy regulars getting into some serious drinking. If you’re hungry, call up a doorstep sandwich of cheese and ham carved from the huge hock behind the bar.