Split: Bars and cafés

  • Academia Ghetto

    © Matt Field/Time Out

    © Matt Field/Time Out
  • Bifora

    © Matt Field/Time Out

    © Matt Field/Time Out

Splićani spend much of their lives in bars, by day at terrace cafés on the Riva; after dark, around the maze of alleyways of the palace; and after closing time at 1am (residents need sleep too) at Bačvice.

Some palace bars have entrances in two streets, others in streets with no name at all, and at least one you’ll love but know you’ll never find again.

The Riva is the place to enjoy coffee, cakes and people-watching during the day. At night, music blares from bars hidden away in the dark corners of the Old Town – the staircase linking Figa and Fluid is one of the most frequently trodden corners of the palace come summer evenings; the alleyway known as Majstora Jurja against the northern wall of the palace is also lined with bars.