It’s a strenuous climb up the steps from Stradun to reach the under-the-walls alley that harbours Lady Pipi, and then you usually have to queue up for quarter of an hour to get in (you can’t reserve). However neither of these factors appear to have dented the popularity of this cult outdoor restaurant, its split-level terrace spread beneath a shady pergola. The recipe for success is simple: grill it, and grill it with affection. Fish, steaks and sausages all come off the coals in fragrant, succulent form. The grotesque street-facing sculpture poised above a stone bowl provides a clue to the name.